There’s a long-standing cliché that makeup is a young woman’s game. She’ll start in her teens to look more ‘mature’, perhaps using it to look more professional in her 20s, and more youthful in her 30s.
If most branding and advertising is anything to go by, this is where the journey stops. But of course, that’s not the case.
Makeup and skin care can be enjoyed by women of all ages.
But until recently, the mature end of the market was largely untapped, leading to many older beauties being unable to find products suitable for their changing needs.
Rageism Beauty was founded by Kathrine Baulderstone and Paula Nagel, women in their 50s and 70s respectively, who are passionate about quality, age-appropriate beauty products.
“We both were tired of the beauty industry ignoring and disregarding older women, and sick of wasting money on products that no longer worked on our skin,” Ms Baulderstone said.
“As we age, our skin changes, and so do our makeup needs. So Paula and I created a range that’s Australian made, mineral, cruelty-free and specifically formulated for mature skin – hence, Rageism Beauty was born.”
Evolving relationship
Ms Baulderstone says many older women give up on makeup because they don’t like how their old makeup looks.
“They lose confidence and feel lost and confused,” she said. “The world of makeup and beauty targets the young and beautiful. Older women often feel ignored and intimidated.”
She adds that, as we age, our skin becomes more textured, loses hydration and becomes duller, and we develop lines, wrinkles and pigmentation.
“All these changes can have a significant impact on older women’s relationship with their makeup,” Ms Baulderstone said.
“Although they love to wear makeup, they can’t find products that perform on their mature skin, and are unsure how to apply their makeup, as the methods they used in the past no longer work.”
Beauty needs
In terms of what someone with mature skin should seek in a beauty product, hydration is key.
“It’s essential to use products (skincare or makeup) that help lock in hydration,” Ms Baulderstone said.
“Ingredients like hyaluronic acid to plump and hydrate, pomegranate to help fight pigmentation, and squalene to seal and strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier are excellent ingredients for mature skin. Face oils are a fabulous pre-primer for beautifully plump skin before makeup.”
A suitable primer will smooth the skin’s surface and reduce texture. Ms Baulderstone recommends opting for an illuminating primer.
“One containing illuminates, like mica, will give skin a “lit from within” look to counteract dullness and prevent makeup from settling in fine lines and wrinkles,” she said.
“Hydrating ingredients, like sea buckthorn, raspberry and kiwi, will ensure your makeup appears dewy, smooth and fresh.”
Mature skin needs a foundation that’s creamy, luminous and lightweight. Ms Baulderstone says it’s best to avoid full-coverage foundations as these create a mask-like look – it’s much more flattering for mature skin to look natural, fresh and even-toned.
“Mature women should look for a buildable foundation, preferably mineral, containing hyaluronic acid and squalene,” she said.
“These hydrating ingredients will help eliminate settling and caking, and keep skin looking fresh under your foundation.”
The most flattering makeup for mature skin, she adds, are cream products.
“Cream products become a part of the skin, quickly add warmth and radiance, and leave the skin looking and feeling hydrated and soft,” she said.
Ageing looks
Generally, powders should be avoided. Ms Baulderstone says many powders contain talc – a filler that can leave a chalky residue on the skin. In addition, powders have the effect of sitting on top of the skin, and when the skin is dry, this causes them to seep into fine lines and wrinkles.
“A high-quality, 100 per cent mineral, finely milled powder can be used sparingly to set your makeup,” she said. “However, it’s essential to use a dense and high-quality brush to apply it.”
Older women also need to be careful to choose a foundation shade that’s slightly warmer than their natural skin tone. If your foundation is too pale, your face will look washed out, which can be ageing.
Heavy black eyeliner should also be avoided, says Ms Baulderstone: “It can look very harsh and make the eyes look small. Similarly, too much mascara on the bottom lashes can flake and create darkness under the eye.”
She says that while there are many “rules” around what older women should and shouldn’t do with their makeup, “the most important rule is to have fun and enjoy experimenting with different looks”.
Discerning shoppers
When ranging beauty products for any age group, it’s important to consider changing desires. Shoppers are becoming increasingly discerning about issues such as sustainability, where their products are manufactured, and with what ingredients.
“The recent bankruptcy of megabrand Revlon can demonstrate this,” Ms Baulderstone said. “Traditional beauty brands aren’t meeting the ethical needs of consumers, like being sustainable, cruelty-free and natural. Women are shopping for smaller brands so that they’re confident about their values as well as their quality. Smaller brands made, sourced and owned by Australians meet those values.”
When helping mature women along their beauty journey, Ms Baulderstone says the key is to listen.
“Try to understand what she’s looking for and what her concerns are,” she said. “Encourage her to buy cream-based products, or even better, products formulated for mature skin. Help her with her foundation shade selection. If she’s not confident regarding the application, it’s a great idea to offer her some tips. Remember to provide guidance that works for mature skin.
“There are lots of great resources online, so do some homework,” Ms Baulderstone advised. “Most importantly, encourage her to try products that will build her makeup confidence.”
This feature was originally published in the August issue of Retail Pharmacy Assistants e-magazine.
