Page 75 - Retail Pharmacy Assistants - October 2020

A breakout star that has emerged from Covid-19 isolation activities is the exploration of a good skin care routine. If you’re anything like me (and millions of others), you’ve probably found yourself more than once down the rabbit hole that is YouTube and videos of celebrities and skin specialists filming their skin care routines, and you’ve drawn inspiration to incorporate into your routine. One step in many people’s skin care routine currently involves retinol. It’s being repeated constantly in videos that it’s a step not to miss. My questions are, though: is it really that important, what’s all the fuss about, and what should pharmacy assistants know when a customer comes into the store with queries on the trendy new step in skin care? While it seems to be a reasonably new addition within the ‘influencer’ world, Dr Jo-Ann See, dermatologist from Central Sydney Dermatology, says specialists have long recognised retinol as a helpful over-the-counter treatment. This is especially true when someone can’t tolerate harsher prescription products. Dr See notes that retinol’s popularity has come from the fact that, “many more cosmetic brands have embraced it, and it’s become more widely available to the general population”. “There are a lot more brands available now, and marketing and social media have popularised it,” Dr See said of retinol. What is retinol? Retinol can be used in a variety of formats. Scroll through a pharmacy’s website and you’ll see retinol wipes, masks, creams, capsules and oils. “Retinol is a form of vitamin A,” Dr See said. “It’s weaker than other vitamin A derivatives, called retinoids, which are available on prescription.” Knowing this is important as pharmacy assistants need to be able to clarify the difference to customers so they’re not confused between retinol and retinoids. Dr See says retinol will work better for those with normal to oily skin. “If people have dry skin, using a moisturiser can help, along with the retinol. However, there is more on this shortly,” she said. Retinol brings the radiance “There are many presumed skin care benefits of vitamin A, including increasing BEAUTY BUZZ 73 cell turnover, which can make the skin surface feel smoother and look clearer. “It has anti-ageing benefits and is said to increase collagen production, as well as correcting pigmentation over time. “It is also said to be beneficial as an anti-acne treatment,” said Dr See. Dr See adds that several studies have shown using the ingredient topically can reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles, pigmentation and acne. A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science involved testing to determine how effective the use of retinol is when it comes to anti-ageing. The results show “remarkable anti-ageing effects through three major types of skin cells: epidermal keratinocytes, dermal endothelial cells and fibroblasts”.1 The study authors conclude that it’s a promising and safe treatment to improve the naturally aged human skin.1 Top tips and tricks It’s essential to start with a low percentage of retinol, Dr See says. “To minimise the potential side effect of irritation and to build up your skin’s tolerance, start by using small amounts, twice a week or perhaps every second night,” she said. “Also, consider using a moisturiser with it. It’s usually recommended to apply the product overnight as it can make your skin more susceptible to UV damage, and using an SPF during the day to protect the new skin cells from UV damage.” Dr See’s tips: what RPAs should advise customers about retinol use • “The most expensive is often not the best. • “Start with the lowest percentage and use every second or third night, and gradually increase over a few weeks, until you can use it every night. • “Once you can use a certain percentage regularly, that is, nightly with no irritation, then you should step up to the next percentage level. • “Consider those people who may have sensitive skin and make sure that they’re not applying too much and that they may want to combine it with a moisturiser. • “Encourage them to use an SPF in the morning.” “Anyone pregnant or breastfeeding should avoid retinol and other vitamin A derivatives, as they can cross the placental barrier and potentially lead to birth defects.” What are the cons out there? Retinol won’t immediately make the skin look younger. It takes time to work its ‘magic’. “It’s often really confusing for the customer to differentiate it from other vitamin A derivatives, called pro-retinol, which are even weaker in strength,” Dr See said. “The other confusing factor is that the percentage may differ from one brand to another, and they may have a different efficiency, so that 0.5 per cent retinol in one brand may be weaker or stronger than the same percentage in another brand. This can be really confusing when switching from one brand to another, or one strength to another.” Dr See adds that a small group of people who have especially sensitive skin, “such as rosacea or eczema sufferers”, may be unable to “tolerate topical retinol”. “Anyone pregnant or breastfeeding should avoid retinol and other vitamin A derivatives, as they can cross the placental barrier and potentially lead to birth defects,” she said. Overall, retinol is making a name for itself as a super ingredient for anti-ageing, as well as treating acne-prone skin. Retinol may be a potential candidate for a customer with either or both such goals. Following Dr See’s advice will help to ensure your customers get the most out of retinol, safely. References: 1. Shao T et al. ‘Molecular basis of retinol anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo’. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016. Accessed 1/9/20. doi.org/10.1111/ics.12348 RETAIL PHARMACY ASSISTANTS • OCT 2020