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SKIN FIX 59 Whether you believe the definition of beauty involves a golden glow or not, there’s no denying the abundance of fake tan products on offer in retail pharmacy, with options from A to Z and numerous formats. So, what should retail pharmacy assistants know when it comes to suggesting such products? By Emily Devon. History of the fake tan While tanning dates back to the 1890s, it was in the 1920s that fashion icon Coco Chanel truly kicked off the trend, according to multiple beauty and fashion websites. The story goes that she returned home from a Mediterranean cruise with noticeably darker skin. From then on, a tan was perceived as representing a person who went on ‘summer holidays on tropical islands, had an outdoor lifestyle, fitness and overall robust health’.1 Before the wave of fake tans in bottles arrived in pharmacies, ways of achieving bronzed results had been limited. Originally, people would lay on beaches or in parks, soaking up the sun’s rays to acquire that ‘sun-kissed’ effect on their skin – many still do. However, bucket loads of information, research and articles cite evidence that the sun can and will cause skin cancer, damage skin cells and lead to early signs of ageing.2 Here at Retail Pharmacy Assistants HQ, we’re absolutely guilty of providing such info. We love our skin care. Tanning is caused by exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun that causes genetic damage to cells on the outmost layer.2 However, such damage isn’t caused only by the sun. Originally, sun lamps and light therapy were concepts created to help patients with medical issues, as sunlight had been recognised as an aid with certain disorders and other medical issues. However, once tanning became a style trend, sun lamps were progressed into tanning beds, opening up the market for other tanning products to be created.1 It has been found that indoor tanning booths increase the risk of developing life-threatening melanoma by 75 per cent from just one indoor tanning session, before the age of 35.2 Furthermore, worldwide, there are more skin cancer cases due to indoor tanning than there are lung cancer cases due to smoking.2 Unsurprisingly, “UV tanning booths are currently banned and illegal to operate in Australia”, says Mohs surgeon and dermatologist Dr Eleni Yiasemides. Spray, foam, cream, you name it Explaining the popularity of self-tanning products, she says not only are they relatively cheap and easy to use, but they “have a proven safety record and are considered non-toxic”. The products come in formats including sprays, where one would use the bottle to spray the body with a fake-tan formula. Foams, creams and moisturisers involve rubbing the product over the body. According to pharmacy assistant and student Keliena Seaton, in her experience, “tanning foams are the most popular products for consumers”. This comes down to their personal preference, she says, as most of the ingredients in tans will be similar. “I think the appeal \[of fake tan products\] has also increased ... \[because\] there are products advertising drying instantly and not having to wait to wash the product off and let it develop,” she said. The good, the bad and the streaky A key ingredient included in many self-tanning products, but not all, is aloe barbadensis leaf juice, also known as aloe vera. The aloe-derived ingredient enhances the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness.3 With some people concerned about the effects of self-tanning product use on dry skin, aloe barbadensis leaf juice is said to aid in hydrating the dry skin, ensuring the finished result isn’t left patchy. Dr Yiasemides says the downsides of using self-tanning products are few, although cosmetic issues can be a problem for some. “They can be tricky to get right,” she said. “Some are streaky and accumulate in unwanted areas (such as the elbows and knees and onto age spots or sunspots – highlighting the bad stuff rather than camouflaging it). Sometimes the colour isn’t right. Sometimes they don’t last as long as desired. Sometimes an even result of colour is not obtained uniformly over the face and body.” Ingredients responsible for colours are another factor to check for on a product label. Self-tanning products will list what types of colour bases are used, including red, yellow, caramel and blue, with the user determining which suits their skin best. Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is an active ingredient used to darken the skin. “DHA is considered safe, non-toxic and with low risk of allergy,” Dr Yiasemides said. “The percentage of this ingredient varies among the formulae available.” The only medical concern she notes with self-tanning products is the lack of any form of photoprotection. “They have no sunscreen ability and they don’t protect the skin from getting burnt or damaged from UV exposure,” she said. Tips on offering tanning tricks Ms Seaton says her adopted procedure when it comes to helping with self-tanning inquiries involves individualising her customers. “\[I try to\] find what’s best for them and their skin,” she said. “However, on average, I’d recommend the Le Tan foam tanners. They have the option to choose the tanner to the correct skin tone. They also have less harmful ingredients than \[the products of\] other tanning companies.” Dr Yiasemides says retail pharmacy assistants should ensure the customer understands that the self-tanning product is purely cosmetic and offers no sunscreen protection. “All customers should be advised to wear adequate sunscreen and take sun avoidance measures to prevent skin cancer development,” she said. References 1. health24, 2017. ‘How tanning became fashionable’. Accessed 6/4/20. health24.com/Medical/Skin/ Your-skin-and-the-sun/how-tanning-became- fashionable-20171006 2. The Skin Cancer Foundation, 2019. ‘Tanning and your skin’. Accessed 6/4/20. skincancer.org/risk- factors/tanning/ 3. Cosmetics Info, 2016. ‘Aloe barbadensis leaf juice’ Accessed 6/4/20. cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/aloe- barbadensis-leaf-juice “Before the wave of fake tans in bottles arrived in pharmacies, ways of achieving bronzed results had been limited.” RETAIL PHARMACY ASSISTANTS • MAY 2020